Yes, it’s possible to construct a “floating” deck, but generally that means sinking footings into the dirt at the side of the cottage-which is considered “disturbed” soil, as it was displaced to build the building. Riser height needs to be consistent (a maximum of 7.75”), but beware of your bottom step: often, inexperienced builders end up with a bottom step that’s taller than the rest, because they fail to factor in the lack of a tread (often an inch thick) at the bottom of the staircase. Using an incorrect riser height for stairs Beams should rest on top of support posts because there aren’t usually enough posts to support the weight of the deck.ġ2. Bolting beams to the sides of support posts Consider building the railing slightly higher to maintain the view.ġ1. Unfortunately, that may be right at eye level when you’re sitting-which means your gorgeous view of the lake is suddenly obscured. If your deck is more than 30 inches off the ground, your railing needs to be at least three feet high. Don’t be tempted by those convenient pre-formed concrete deck blocks-they won’t hold up to temperature fluctuations, leading to a heaving, sinking deck.
In places with a freeze-thaw cycle (so, all of cottage country), concrete footings should be placed at least four feet below grade in a builder’s tube. Also, factor in the weight of snow and ice when you’re calculating how much weight your deck will bear. Not having appropriately sized structural membersĭon’t try to save money by skimping on undersized joists and beams-make sure everything is the right size for the job. When in doubt, make sure to follow any manufacturer’s instructions.Ĩ. Also, use the right fasteners for the job: don’t attach a guardrail with wood screws (they’re not strong enough), and don’t nail the deck to the ledger board (use through bolts or lag screws). Stainless steel or coated fasteners are best for decks. Unless you want to deal with rust stains and worse, make sure the fasteners you use are appropriate for outdoor use. Composite and hardwood are more expensive, but require less maintenance. If you’re OK with regular maintenance, pressure-treated wood is a cost effective way to go. You can pick from classic pressure-treated lumber, composite, or hardwood. Not investigating all your decking options Sorry-but you don’t want to risk an unsafe deck.Ħ. Yes, you need a permit to build a deck if it’s going to be more than two feet off the ground. Track where the sun shines at different times during the day, and plan accordingly. If you’d like to enjoy your deck as much as possible, plan for both sun and rain shelter.
Consider building multiple levels if you want to have an elaborate seating area. It’s probably a good idea to figure out where it’s easiest to put the barbecue, and plan the rest of the space around that.Ī full-on outdoor living room set with a gazebo is (obviously) going to take up a lot more room than two Muskoka chairs and a cooler. You don’t want the barbecue miles from the back door, but you also don’t want it super close to your sitting area. Consider incorporating different “rooms” or areas for specific purposes: put the dinner table close to the barbecue, and consider creating a separate seating area. Think about how you’re going to use your deck-for sitting? Eating? Cooking? Entertaining? All of those purposes require different types of spaces, and if you don’t take them into consideration, you’re going to have a big fat waste of time and money on your hands.
Here are our top 15-and how to avoid them. Building a deck seems like a simple project for someone who is reasonably comfortable with DIY-but there are a surprising number of mistakes to be made.